Saturday, 4 July 2009

The evening before the race begins...

20:00 BST 4th July 2009, Gdynia, Poland

The skipper writes: It has been an eventfull trip so far; not quite as anyone would have planned. We did not expect to have to motor all the way. However, we had to get to Gdynia and motoring was the most reliable option. The crew have now been introduced to the watch (rota) system which seems to work quite well. As we lose one member of the crew on Sunday, we will change the watches for the first race leg. Barry will join Phil, Wayne and I, while the others will be with Amy and Vanessa.
We are now looking forward to the first race leg, to entering St Petersburg, and to the cruise after that. The lads have now met some of the other crews and the other boats, and are getting more of a feel for what it will take to do well in the race. Teamwork, focus and application being 3 of the key factors and all things that are now starting to be instilled in this crew. Tonight, they put the mailsail away without guidence. Tomorrow we start proper sailing for the next 5 days, the longest passage so far.
The forecast is for the wind to increase on Wednesday which would be good to blow us in towards St Petersburg. At the briefing today, we learnt that we finish the race leg some 120 miles from St Petersburg then motor the rest of the way. We will be there by Saturday which is when we should be in contact again. Right now, we need to get set up to leave in the morning. Next stop, St Petersburg!

Rest and preparation

17:15 BST Saturday 4th July, Gdynia, Poland
Today has been restful. The organisers arrnaged for a tour of the "Tri-cities" - Gdynia, Sopot and Gdansk. Gdynia was built between 1922 and 1926 when it was decided that a new port was needed. Gdansk was largely re-built after WW2, in the same style as it was before. There was a heavy dutch presence in the middle ages and the old town is worth a much longer explore than we had time for.
The crowds along the quayside are even thicker than before. It is difficult to get around. The sun is very hot but we are somewhat cooler within Pegasus. Around us there are signs of boats being made ready to leave. We have removed the sail cover (which had been providing a very welcome sun shade), ready to put our race number onto the sail. Every boat must display its number during the race.
Diggory and Amy are currently delayed at the Captains Briefing where they are learning the plan for the first race leg. Phil has prepared a kedgeree for our final meal before it's back to watches.
What we know about tomorrow is that we need to be ready to leave port at 08.45 but we have no idea exactly when the boat will be called to leave. The organisers have to get all the boats out beyond the harbour wall where they will sail up and down as a "Parade of Sail" for the citizens of Gdynia. Then, in the late afternoon, the race itself will begin.

A Day in Port

Friday 3rd July 2009, Gdynia, Poland

The Tall Ships is many things to very many people. At its heart, it really is an opportunity for young people to meet other young people of different nationalities and backgrounds; and experience something that few do experience - the welcome of a city. It is then also an opportunity for a city to celebrate itself.
Gdynia is a natural host for this event. There is a large basin for the larger ships as well as a separate area for the smaller yachts. The Pegasus is one of the smaller, large boats and is moored in the larger basin and so part of the major attractions. The lads have been good embassadors, greeting people on the quayside and stamping their programmes with the Pegasus commerative stamp. Around us lie some of the largest Tall Ships in the world - including the Mir and Sedof from Russia, the latter all the way from Myrmansk.
Today, we had the Crew Parade. All the crews of all the Tall Ships took part in a parade through some of the main streets of the town and back to the quayside. The way was lined with people, the band played, the sun shone, the people waved and the cameras clicked. We were only 10 from Pegasus amongst hundreds of others from each of the larger Russian, German, Danish and Polish ships. Having a musician as one of the crew, we made music while many of the other made noise.
The city of Gdynia must have been empty this evening; there were so many people down at the quayside. After the fireworks, most of the locals headed home, leaving the crews to circulate and get to know each other. Some boats will have different crews for each leg of the adventure; the Pegasus is possibly unique in having the same crew throughout. Gdynia is the first port; there are 3 more to come.
Tomorrow is the final rest day before the first leg of the race begins on Sunday.

Thursday, 2 July 2009

Gdynia - the first day and the fleet arrives

Thursday 2nd July 2009 , 17:36 BST, Gdynia, Poland

The Pegasus is now safely moored in the basin in Gdynia. We arrived yesterday, ahead of most of the fleet. The organisation here is superb with a very friendly welcome. Wednesday night felt like locals night. Many people wandering around looking at the boats but not too busy (yet...). Much of the infrastructure for the event was still being built. Gdynia is a working port and harbour and has some of the facilities year around. Some of us found a nice cafe/restaurant playing a mix of soul/blues/popular music and we chilled out. The lads explored the port area. They found both the playground/funfare and the beach, and began to appreciate what it is like to find yourself in another country.

We had an easy morning. Everyone helped do a clean of the boat then it was time off. The opening ceremony was at 2pm local time. Being on ships time, one hour behind, we missed the start and were greeted by sound of all the ships klaxons as we walked to the Dar Pomorza. She is the pride of the Polish tall ships. A brass band played and the sun shone.

Everyone is very friendly here. Clearly, the Tall Ships event brings a lot of people into Gdynia. Both a lot of sailors and also very many people who come to look at the boats and just wonder around - to see and to be seen.

During the morning, more of the Tall Ships arrive. The Lord Nelson stands out, as do the boats from the UK, Norway, Denmark, Russia and of course Poland. The Mir, from Russia, is perhaps the grandest of them all. To a newcomer, it is all so very impressive.

The basin now resembles a large village fete - very many stalls, the best sell food but many sell tat. There is a real coffee bar just down from our boat which we managed to miss in the crowd!

Tonight is the Captains Dinner. As a reward (?) for getting us here, and coping with all the bureauracy (sp? = paperwork and officialdom!), Amy and Diggs get a dinner along with all the other ship captains. This is part of the formal side of the Tall Ships and will happen in each port. Out comes the suit and frock (ah! but which frock?).

More ships arrive, the John Laing joins us, moored conveniently (!) just behind. We have a large boat from Guernsey between us and the quay; a Danish boat outside of us until just now when another, larger, Danish boat arrived and they changed places. The smaller Danish boat is, quite appropriately, also a pilot cutter. She was built in 1929 as a recreational boat and used to put pilots onto freighters. She is also wooden, with two masts.

It is now dinner time, then another stroll around, in the continental evening warmth, light and atmosphere.

to be continued...

Wednesday, 1 July 2009

We have arrived!!!!

Wednesday 1st July 2009 11:47 BST Gdynia
Pegasus has arrived in Poland, 3 days after leaving Rendsburg. 3 days at sea; 3 days motoring; 3 days of watches. The last 24 hours have been perfect -- no wind for sailing but this gave us a velvety calm sea and a very easy passage. The late evening watch saw a thunderstorm over the shore on our starboard side so they took down the sails. Better to be cautious, we don't want to damage the boat now in a storm. But the storm stayed over the land and went away. The light during the midnight watch was absolute magic. The sea so calm and the night never really became dark. Plenty of time to reflect, the North Sea now a distant memory.

Gdynia is protected on the north east by a long spit of land. We approached it then went parallel. The Baltic is very deep here, some 70M. Whereas even while going along the open sea, it had been just 40M. We could see beaches along the coast and then the headland and we turned west towards Gdynia. We were early and considered stopping at the interestingly named Hel. However, it did look too great so we gave Hel a miss. It wasn't time to go ...

We crossed the shipping lane and were met by a welcoming motorboat, a very powerful inflatable speedboat, whose job it is to welcome the Tall Ships as they arrive and guide them in. As we were still quite far out, 4 of the lads were given a short and very exiting ride on the boat. They were returned on board and we followed south west towards the port. As we got closer, we could see the masts of Tall Ships behind the harbour wall.

We turned right to go behind the harbour wall. It is being repaired and even the welder stopped to take a look at us. Entering the marina, we could see that we are amongst the first to arrive, being a day early. We have tied up alongside a boat from Guernsey. Just as we did, it began to rain. Welcome to Poland!

We now have to wait for the immigration formalities to be completed. Then it will be time to spruce up the ship (when it stops raining) and go shopping to replenish the provisions.

We are here. Some 900 miles and 11 days from Portsmouth. The race itself starts on Sunday. Now it is time for lunch.

The crew become more ship shaped

30th June 2009 07:07 The Baltic Sea
As I sit here with my cup of tea, having wolfed down a plate of baked beans on toast with bacon, the boat is bouncing around just enough to be slightly uncomfortable (and cause of few tupos). A big contrast to a week ago when only Amy and Diggory would have even contemplated eating while sailing along. The human body is very adaptable.

Continuing the journey

30th June 2009 06:47 The Baltic Sea
After passing between the German coast and a Danish island, we headed out into the Baltic, coming again along the German coast before steering towards Bornholm, a Danish island just to the south of Sweden. The sea was calm, there was little wind and we pottered along. With the German coast on our starboard side, we saw a few other sailing boats and the occasional freighter. Sunset was impressive again, hoping for some good photographs. The evening grew cold and quite damp. The Baltic feels colder and certainly damper than the North Sea but at least it is calm. The night watches are long but uneventful. Sunset was at 8.45pm but it didn't really feel dark until well after 10pm then it was light again when the watches changed over at 2am. Sunrise came at 0323 and was classic again, first a very small arc of orange which grew quite quickly into a half then full circle of shimmering orange-red.
This watch was able to put up the staysail which is the one between the jib (at the very front, above the bowsprit) and the main mast. We were now motoring along at a steady 6 knots, aided by the wind, pointing at 085 degrees.
The mind wanders delightfully during quiet watches. What does one miss? What does one feel like now? At 5.30am, a full english breakfast would be nice. No words were spoken but at 6pm the main crew area became Phil and Wayne's cafe serving beans on toast with bacon. Wonderful. Those going on watch are served first followed by those coming off watch who then do the clearing up.

Preparing to fiddle

29th June, 13:10 ships time

There are two distinct bonuses from having a musician as one of the crew. Firstly, when there are the three of us on watch, we can talk about music; or two talk and one mostly listens. Secondly, there is the priviledge of listening to a professional prepare a new instrument, in this case a fiddle, to suit their particular style of playing. The fiddle was purchased from a junk shop in Exeter from a batch of bankrupt stock, new and a bargain but still a cheap instrument. An emery board is used to gently sand the bridge to find the right profile. Gradually it sounds better and better until the boat is filled with the joyous sound of a fiddle tune. We look forward to more music once we reach port in Poland.

Motor-sailing or close encounters of the Baltic kind

29th June 2009, 12:30 ships time (BST)

The sea has been calm all night. The Baltic has no tide as such. A lot of rainwater flushes in to it from all the surrounding rivers and the only way out is via the North Sea which is also trying to come in. A balance of sorts is achieved. There has been little wind.
We progressed from Kiel with the German coast on our starboard (right) side and a Danish island on our port. We had two brief encounters of the Danish waters kind. It was a cold, starry night in the middle. The Sun set behind a cloud and appeared again, above the clouds which still covered the horizon, at 04.43 (precisely: the watch always bet on who guesses the time of sunrise). It was a short night. In the late evening we had the company of the John Laing and the Mir; the latter being a 3 masted sail training ship of the Russion navy. The middle watch saw the Lord Nelson. All of whom will be together at Gdynia.
The early morning watch began cold and misty. We had another close encounter, this time with a ferry. Close being around half a mile. Gradually the mist began to clear and patches of blue sky appeared. By 11am it was actually getting warm. We had been sailing due east, then north east, finally clearing a headland and a breeze appeared, together with a few smiles as the mainsail was un-reefed and raised to its full height, then the jib (the front-most sail) was unfurled and we were not just motoring but motor-sailing. It was now 11:30. Perhaps before long we can actually sail?

The watches changed at 12 noon. The deal is that one person from each watch work together to make a meal. Lunch was tuna/ham/cheese sandwiches. Time to catch up on the travelogue, tidy up the boat a bit, and check the tuning on the fiddle and guitar.`

Into the Baltic

28th June 2009

The Baltic at Kiel is a busy place. It is "Kiel week" with various events going on. There was no room for us to moor so it was decided to press on to Poland. The mainsail went up, still reefed as we would motor through the night and then plan to sail after sunrise. We passed the "John Laing" who had picked up a new crew in Kiel and would also head for Poland although probably not the exact same route.

We had dinner as the watches began again - 6pm-10pm then 10pm-2am, 2am-6am, 6am-12noon, 12noon-6pm and so on.
We expect to be at sea for some 3 days now, perhaps arriving a day early in Poland but everything depends upon the wind.

How we spent our Sunday afternoon...

...motoring along the Kiel Canal.

28th June 2009
We left Rendsburg around 11.45 ships time (BST) and re-joined the canal. There was not very much traffic. We did encounter a number of large vessals coming towards us but nothing overtook us until we reached Kiel when some 3 or 4 large ships appeared behind us, queueing to get into the large ship lock.
We did pass many people out for a Sunday afternoon stroll along the canal. There seemed to be a few "rest areas" with people eating and drinking up top of the canal bank. Cycling along the canal path is another popular activity. The weather was good, not very sunny but pleasant.
We arrived at the lock at Kiel around 3pm. We joined another half dozen yachts going our way, including one boat also going for the Tall Ships race, a dutch two masted boat, the Marie Antoinette. Then the lock gates opened and the baltic appeared before us. We crossed the line from the calm water of the lock into the almost as calm water of Kiel and we were there. Some 450 miles after leaving Portsmouth - but still another 330 miles to go!

Sunday, 28 June 2009

Completing the canal

Sunday 28th June, 1140am BST
We have now re-filled with diesel and are heading back to the canal proper. The current plan is to complete the canal passage, probably 3 hours, then stop in Kiel itself to wait for the wind to improve on Monday. However, until we get there, we won't know for sure what is the best plan. There remains a long way to go to get to Gdynia.

The Kiel Canal

The canal is a very impressive feat of engineering. Only a little wider than the Thames in London, it is some 20m deep and can take very large ships. We motored along at a steady 5 knots with larger vessels passing us as they kept to the maximum 8 knot speed limit. The canal has km markers to keep track of how far along you go. There are many ferries darting across, in front and behind. You pass small groups of houses, then larger villages, many of which appear quite new. There are a few bridges across, either road or rail. One rail bridge had a ferry suspended from it. As we approached Rendsburg, we saw a hugh railway bridge. Looking at the map, we saw that the railway line takes a circle through the town as it gains the height to cross over the canal.

There is good mobile phone contact along the canal. One of Phils' friends in Cardiff found a web cam on the bridge at Rendsburg and emailed him a photo of Pegasus passing under the bridge. Such is modern travel.

Diggory decided to see whether we could stop in Rendsburg for the night. There is a cut from the canal into the town. We motored down it and found a yacht harbour at the end. We circled around looking for a place to moor. Then we spotted someone waving at us and directing us around, behind a line of yachts, to a mooring long enough for the 56ft Pegasus (with the bowsprit, she does need a long space). However, to get there, and be ready to get out again in the morning, Diggory needed to reverse her in, not easy for a boat designed to go forwards. It was good to see how this is done - with patience and based upon a lot of practice. We moored up and stopped the engine which had now been running continuously for some 57 hours. The silence was lovely.

We had done some two thirds of the canal. When sailing to places that you have never been to before, you never know what you might find. This time we were in luck. The Yacht Club in Rendsburg is a little gem. Small, very neat and tidy, with friendly people. Nice hot showers and cool beer! We ate our first meal ashore for a week and slept in the quiet.

Den Helder to the Kiel Canal

25th to 27th June 2009

This was the hardest passage so far. We left Den Helder 8am Thursday morning and arrived at the entrance to the canal at 7am Saturday morning - essentially 2 days later.

We had to motor all the way, the wind being against us. The first day and night were quite pleasant, despite the constant (but reasurring) sound of the motor. The sea was relatively calm; the sunset was classic as the sun "globbed" into the sea. Many photographs of that with Ben having one of the best. The sea became heavier as we approached first the Eider then the Elbe. We passed a hugh container ship waiting to go into port. Visibility became poor during the afternoon. The mainsail came down early evening.
During the 2am watch, early on Saturday morning, as we entered the Elbe estuary, the sea became quite rough. We followed the bouys towards Brunsbuttel, avoiding the large ships that were heading either for the canel or up into Hamburg. For those of us on deck, it was quite a priviledge seeing how sea traffic operates. We watched as a modern pilot boat come out and put a pilot on board a large ship over on our port side. As well as following the line of buoys, we were watching behind us as the big ships took their course, going much faster than we were. Diggory steered us skillfully close to the buoys and the big ships passed safely on our port side. The Elbe estuary seemed to go on forever until finally the canal entrance came into sight.
We entered the lock for yachts, quite large and could take around a dozen boats of our size if full. We shared it with only one other. The gates closed behind us, the lock slowly filled, then the gates opened in front of us and we passed into the canal proper - 48 hours since leaving Den Helder. The water was now smooth -- we had made it!